Apr 23, 2020 - “Here’s the tutorial for dark skin using Contrast! I took a class with him at Gen Con. So I've been playing about with the new Contrast Paints from Games Workshop and I wanted to see if I could get something done for gaming really quickly. 5000 Fir Farillecassion Eldar W/L/D 4th Ed Codex - 14/7/1 6th Ed Codex - 9/1/0 7th Ed Codex - 4/1/1 8th Ed Codex - 20/6/2 9th Ed - 2/1/0 As with my other B&W minis, this was done with a mix of contrast and regular paints over zenithal priming. I feel this is okay to do, because I have no soul. Since I wrote that post, a new element entered the picture: I pre-ordered two more games with miniature figures: Tainted Grail and Etherfields, both published by Awaken Realms. Retributor Armour – More coloured metals! However, see my discussion of contrast medium below. And the end result: I'd also suggest taking some pictures of the figure after the zenithal priming to use as a reference once you start painting just in case you put the paint on too thick and need a reminder of where the light and shadows are in that specific area. The colour in the pot is way off! You’ll apply black, grey, and white primers in a way that creates a gradient effect from the shadows to the upper most areas. share. and don’t have much use for them. It worked quite nicely over the black and grey, but didn’t give enough contrast over the white; hence the need to dry brush and add a little wash. They’re supposed to be easy to use: just slop the paint over white primer and you’re done. You need to forget that with contrast paints, apply them carefully, and go from light to dark to maximise the effectiveness. But it isn’t that hard! If you apply thin layers over the primer layer the paint that you put over the black primer will appear darker than the paint that you put over the white primer. However, an idea presented itself. I wanted to combine Contrast with my normal painting workflow and see how the new paints could be used to improve it. That’s very different to the grim dark tones that have been mostly popular over the last year. I went with a black/grey/white zenithal prime using my airbrush. Hair was diluted Gryph Charger gray (this has a green/blue tint but made it stand out a little from the skin). Fourth …. Zenithal Priming is a way to paint your miniatures based on how they are traditionally viewed. I do this step mostly completly wet in wet, that means i … For me, applying paint quickly and neatly enough is fun, and because I see the model come to life without the “this looks terrible stages of base coats and highlights”, it maintains my interest painting the same colour over larger numbers of models. If you are just using contrast paints, remember you won’t be filling that gap with a later wash! Your email address will not be published. Add water, and it stops being contrast, and turns into a very expensive runny glaze. Again, careful planning reduces the clean up. To my pleasant surprise, the answer was no. Normally with paints we paint from the lowest parts of the model up to the highest as its a little easier in terms of brushwork and clean up. 3 comments. Even zenithal priming doesn't really work with contrast. Depending on the figure, I might want a less intense color; e.g., a mist creature or an undead. At the end of that post, I looked forward to painting the dragon Volfyirion and the miniatures in Icaion, both from Tabula Games. Running just slightly over gives you some lovely recess shading with minimal work, but just requires a light touch. I was content with the results I got. The plan here was to give me enough initial contrast so that I could then spray a single base color and still get a nice gradient effect. I have used Zenithal priming with some success, I think the 2 step rather than the 3 step process is fine as you have illustrated. How to Paint with Contrast Paints. Oh, and if you put a few areas of different primer on your contrast lids, then cover it with that contrast paints, you’ll know what it’ll look like. Enjoy. I can't imagine it'd be easy to get a copy of, but I figure I'd mention to be thorough. My final tip for application involved brushes. First, contrast is a translucent paint that is designed to recede from edges and heavily pigment recesses. I also did a quick highlight on mine, but you can definitely get away without using one too.” Priming and the color you choose is especially important with Contrast Paints. Plan your contrast paints around the metal going on, and you can often find that you can speed up a lot of your painting as if the metal parts are going to get overpainted carefully, you can slap the other colours on faster around the awkward bits. Well, for the contrast paints to flow properly, the primer has to be smooth. The basic method starts with priming the model black. And that includes your mould lines, stubs from sprue cuts, and everything else. The last three paints listed above certainly satisfy that need. ... Cover the parts of the model that will end up white in Apothecary White Contrast paint. This definitely doesn’t come across in the photos: The darker contrast paint colors have a sheen to them that makes the surfaces seem almost metallic; the Wyldwood mini looks like it was made of bronze. Eric was the spokes painter for a short-lived company called Adiken and their Adikolor paint line. 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